Spotlight on Value

After the opulence of Christmas and New Year’s, and as the traditional January belt-tightening sets in - at least temporarily - the LCBO’s Vintages does its best to co-operate, and so, on January 10, it presents its “Smart Buys” issue.
 
While “cheap” is relative, there are clearly some fine, inexpensive wines hitting the shelves next weekend, so much so that a person could easily focus on this release to stock his or her cellar with wines that will do such good service that one wouldn’t need to worry about buying another bottle for 3 to 6 months or more!

White Wines
 
Crios Chardonnay 2013 from Susana Balbo in Argentina will over-deliver at $13.95, with ripe, tropical pineapple and pear notes, some oak influence and a dry finish – one B.C shop currently lists it for $21, so the value is obvious.
 
Torrontés is an aromatic grape developing more and more popularity in Argentina, and the Zuccardi Serie A 2013, $15.95, with its floral nose and melon and lychee qualities, will appeal to those who enjoy a Gewurztraminer, especially one with a bitter almond trace on the finish. (An erobertparker.com 90.)
 
South Africa’s Mulderbosch in the Western Cape can be counted on for good quality at a good price, and so their take on France’s Loire region’s favourite white grape, Chenin Blanc, here the 2012, $14.95 will please you – the dependable Platter’s South African Wine Guide says it’s “mouthfilling, & rich, balanced by tangy acidity.”
 
Not to be outdone is Australia’s Wakefield Chardonnay 2013, $14.95 – it has received many good reviews, many picking up on full, stone fruit flavours with fresh citrus apparent on the finish.
 
You can make it a trio of Chardonnays and conduct your own tasting by adding California’s Mark West Central Coast Chardonnay 2012, $16.96 to the equation – Vintages describes it as “Full-bodied and Rich”, while another site calls it “light and crisp”, though both remark on tropical fruit and vanilla, and the latter remarks on its ”creamy, toasty oak finish.”
 
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is often over $20, and so the HãHã 2013 for $17.95 should please the devotees to this varietal, with its steely, lip-smacking dryness, gooseberry and lime notes on the palate, and tangy, tangy finish.
 
This month, Anselmi San Vincenzo, a stellar white from the Veneto, is on Limited Time Offer for $14.95, a $2 saving – it’s a Vintages Essential so always available – it is medium bodied with excellent flavour and always dependable.

Red Wines
 
The absolute star of the release should be the Tommasi Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo 2011, number 31 on the Wine Spectator’s  “Top 100”, yet only $17.

Tommasi is a highly regarded producer of wines from the Veneto - think Amarone, Ripasso, Valpolicella - , but their Poggio al Tufo estate in the coastal Maremma region of Tuscany is producing amazing wine after wine, and this one might be ‘la crème de la crème”.
 
With consistent scores in the low 90’s, this 60/40 Cabernet Sauvignon/ Sangiovese blend is said by one writer to have Amarone-like qualities, and is well-knit, full of mature fruit, and begging to be paired with red Italian sauces and cheese, all carried along to a smooth velvety finish – incredibly, it is a Wine of the Month, and therefore readily available, but I wouldn’t expect it to last long.  Buy.  Buy.  Buy!
 
This month, the Tommasi Ripasso is an LTO at $19.95, a $3 saving – why not compare?
 
On a normal release, the Rompicollo would humble most of the wines on the roster, but this week there is a slew of wines that can hold their heads up high.
 
Australia’s “humble” Heartland Stickleback Red 2012, a mere $13.95, blends the common Shiraz and “Cab Sauv” with a dollop of Dolcetto, a lighter, vibrant red from Piedmont to give us a smooth, spicey wine with good grip on the finish – grill the sausages and celebrate.
 
Not to be outdone for the same $13.95,South Africa’s Man Skaapfeld Shiraz 2013 has won decent reviews around the world, described variously as savoury and ripe; according to Vintages, it “serves up rich plum, dark chocolate, and earthy notes” – break out the pizza.
 
South America continues to provide us with some of the very best values in quality wine, and the Ventisquero Quelat Gran Reserva Single Vineyard 2011 Carmenère, $15.95 is another in-your-face example of a grape that was rescued from oblivion after the great Phylloxera epidemic that devastated the vineyards of Europe
 
This grape virtually disappeared, only to be rediscovered on plantings on the original rootstock in South America – our Great Northern Road store will have four cases of this big wine, which should suggest coffee, chocolate and tobacco – in my experience this varietal really does carry a significant “green-leaf”/herbal note, and it cries out for beef or lamb.
 
I admire the best of wines made by Chile’s Concha y Toro, and I anticipate that their Serie Riberas Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, $17.95 will most definitely deliver in abundance – the Wine Spectator gave it a 91, and suggests that this is a meaty, sinewy wine with licorice and peppery notes.
 
If you appreciate Zinfandel, the XYZin Old Vine Zin 2012, $18.95, will meet all expectations for rich dark berry flavours, some smokiness and a dry, pleasing finish.
 
I’ve admired the efforts of Argentina’s Graffigna for years, and their Grand Reserve Malbec 2011, $17, should measure up; according to Beppi Crosariol of the Globe and Mail who scored it 89, it is “Cheerful but concentrated and structured” and has notes of “plum berry, vanilla and chocolate”  - we will have 6 cases at the Great Northern Road store.
 
For Barolo fans (usually $35 and up) San Silvestro Cantine Brumo Nebbiolo D’Alba 2012, $15.95 is a great bargain from the Langhe sub-region of Piedmont, with full-bodied , persistent flavours in a wine that has had the edges taken off with full malo-lactic fermentation and a year in oak casks.
 
Spain quite frequently gives us some of the best values one might hope for, and on this release we have the Rioja, Rio Madre 2013, $14.95 – Stephen Tanzer of the International Wine Cellar rates it 90, saying it ”Smoothly combines power and finesse, finishing with strong punch, sneaky tannins and lingering berry and floral qualities.”
 
From the same region, the Finca Del Marquesado Gran Reserva 2004 Rioja is a mere $19.95, a steal for a 10-year-old gem with a Wine Enthusiast  91 – at this age it will show refinement and length, spice, and violets…it would be another good choice for those who like Barolo.
 
Ontario’s Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon is an excellent, bio-dynamic red wine which will illustrate pure, text-book cabernet flavours and qualities, and it is on sale this month for $20.45, a savings of $2.50.
 
There are many, many more fine values, from La Posta Bonarda, $14.95, to 12 e Mezza Primitivo del Salento, $13.95, from Momo Pinot Noir, $19.95 to Lafage Cote Sud 2012, $14.95, and all, all are worth trying, depending on your tastes – don’t hesitate to ask the Consultants to point out goodies I’ve neglected.
 
It’s a terrific release – I’m sure you’ll be pleased.